Electronic House has posted a planning guide to building a home theater. The 10 steps are pretty much right on but the time estimates given seem to be a little long, even if you were to do it yourself such as 3 weeks for framing, 2-3 weeks for drywall and paint and 6 weeks for trim and finish work. Never the less, it's an interesting outline of what to expect.
By Alan Lofft-Axiom Audio
Last month's Part One
on home theater soundproofing received an excellent response, including
rather vociferous discussion on other sites (and in emails to me),
encouraging the use of a substance called "Green Glue" in place of
silicone caulk. Further research indicates there is a range of various
soundproofing caulks and glues available from a variety of vendors at
widely varying prices. To sum up, it's the sealing properties and
elasto-viscous nature of these materials that all help, but
do-it-yourselfers should be cautious about some extravagant claims made
for some of these materials.
Specialty Materials
One reader sent along a link to www.quietsolution.com
which markets a popular specialty soundproofing drywall called
QuietRock, comprised of three layers of viscoelastic, ceramic and
gypsum material. QuietRock's QR-525, which incorporates these layers,
claims to be remarkably effective -- one 5/8-inch layer of it is said
to be the equivalent of up to eight layers of standard drywall and
achieve STC ratings of "up to 72". It's certainly worth exploring these
and other options.
That said, there is still no substitute for the tried and true construction techniques outlined in Part One
-- staggered-stud walls with double layers of drywall on each side,
interior wall cavities loosely filled with sound-deadening insulation,
solid-core doors (or double doors), weather-stripping, using dissimilar
materials and/or air spaces and so on.
The Room Within a Room
But
there is one soundproofing solution that tops them all -- building a
room within a room, which is derived from methods used to isolate
recording studios and concert halls from all extraneous sounds and
rumbles. Both the Glenn Gould studio in the Canadian Broadcasting
Corporation's Toronto broadcast facility and Zankel Hall, the recital
hall that is part of the Carnegie Hall complex in New York, isolated
the recital halls from streetcar and subway rumbles, respectively, by
constructing an interior hall that rests on huge rubber dampers. This
room within a room technique not only excludes all exterior sounds but
also prevents sound from within the halls themselves from escaping to
other performance spaces in the buildings.
The Double Floor
You
can use a similar technique by building a double floor (see
illustration below) that rests on half-inch-thick rubber mats (look for
these from specialty suppliers). The double floor with 3/4-inch plywood
on top and bottom, and fiberglass insulation between the 2 x 4 studs,
supports the inner room, which also uses studded walls with drywall on
both sides and sound-deadening fiberglass insulation within the wall
cavities. A 6-inch air gap between the walls of the inner room and the
outer room is sufficient to greatly reduce sound transmission.
Carefully compute the dimensions of the inner room, taking into account
the airspace between the inner and outer walls, as well as the actual
thickness of the inner and outer walls, to come up with a consistent
air gap of 6 inches. The dimensions of the inner room will,
consequently, be much smaller than that of the outer room. The studded
walls of the outer room should also use drywall on both sides.
Specialty
sound-deadening insulation products are available for use within the
walls and include such brands as Owens Corning QuietZone and Roxul Safe
'n' Sound.
Since you've constructed an inner room and an
outer room, it will by nature have two doors, which will be very
effective in keeping sound from escaping. You should consult a
specialty sound contractor for details on sound-deadening ventilation
techniques that can be applied to the hot and cold air supply and
return ducts as well as methods of wiring that prevent sound leaks to
the outside.
It is beyond the scope of this article to go
into precise carpentry techniques of floor, wall, joist, stud and
header construction, but abundant material is available on the Web and
in books. Here are some links to other sites and products that may
prove helpful in your soundproofing endeavors:
Tired of waiting around for Apple's iTV? Why not build your own? "Apple's
forthcoming iTV promises to place all your digital media on your TV.
But what if you don't want to wait months before enjoying your iTunes
music and video or iPhoto pictures in your living room? And is iTV
really worth the price? Ryan Faas looks at the options that exist right
now and tells you why you might actually be able to spend less money
and get a more rounded solution today."
iTheater has developed the mac media center software:
[via Make]
"The Active Cantenna is Back! But this time we've added a DirecTV
Satellite Dish to see what wifi improvements, if any, it makes. Jim
finishes the Pudding Cup Capacitor in this episode.
As much as we all love home theater movie soundtracks and music at realistic playback levels (“realistic” does not necessarily mean extremely loud), most of us have to deal with other people in our lives—family, roommates, companions, younger children and/or older relatives in the house, or neighbors in nearby, adjacent or adjoining homes. Even if you live in the woods or on the plains, there is still the pervasive problem of preventing the sounds that you enjoy from traveling through your dwelling's structure to other rooms to annoy those who may not appreciate your late-evening movie or music tastes. An added benefit of soundproofing your home theater room will be that the soundproofed room will also keep annoying noise and outside sounds from entering the room. You'll have created a peaceful and quiet sanctuary in your home that shuts out the noise and clamor of daily life, be it car horns, coffee grinders, leaf blowers, or loud music on inferior playback systems (even those with wheels attached). Quiet spaces bring a measure of tranquility to our lives.
That said, soundproofing is a rather complex subject best treated in several articles.
Different approaches are required for new home construction or for soundproofing a room in an existing home. Soundproofing after the fact may involve building a room within a room, literally, depending on just how much sound you want to keep in and keep out of the room.
How Sound Travels
Let's look at sound, and think about how it travels in order to better understand how to stop it or contain it. Sound is made up of energized pressure waves in the air that cause objects in its path (including our eardrums) to vibrate --objects like walls, floors, doors and ceilings. (Deep bass energy is the worst, as you may have noticed when you walk past a dance club or when a car with a booming one-note subwoofer passes by your home.)
When the sheetrock or plaster wall vibrates, the deep bass vibrations travel to other rooms through the wooden supporting studs and the connected framing of the house. The midrange and high frequency sounds vibrate the sheetrock panels, pressurize the air inside and travel to the drywall on the other side, causing it to vibrate and conduct the energy to the next room, albeit with some losses. That is why midrange sounds and highs are audible but muffled in the next room if no soundproofing methods are applied. But if you apply dual layers of drywall on each side, one layer vertical, the other horizontal, the added mass reduces the amount of energy that passes through. Also, you are laminating the sheetrock materials in different directions. This appears to the sound vibrations as two dissimilar materials, greatly reducing the midrange and high frequency energy passed to the other room. (It also reduces bass energy because you are mass-loading the walls.) Adding loosely packed fiberglass insulation in the wall cavities of interior walls further reduces the energy passing through, in effect making the air between the walls more lossy. Staggering the wall studs (see below) on each side prevents the bass from passing through because it has to move the studs and the wall, which is very hard to do.
Stopping sound in its tracks
There are three essential things that will stop or reduce the intensity of sound waves:
air, mass, and distance. For example, a 6-inch-thick concrete
wall has lots of mass, so it will stop a lot of sound because the sound waves
lose energy trying to move the mass of concrete.
Anything that's heavy
will help stop sound waves, and that includes adding a double layer of drywall,
with alternating seams and with one layer placed vertically and the other
layer(s) horizontally. Conversely, lightweight materials are largely useless in
preventing sound transmission, with the exception of fiberglass batts used to
loosely fill the cavities between walls.
Soundproofing and sound absorption
Don't confuse soundproofing with sound absorption. Sound absorption uses carpet, heavy draperies, closed-cell foam or similar material within a room to curb or absorb reflections, essentially to stop excessive echoes and reverberation. However these materials will do little to prevent the transmission of lower-frequency bass and vibration through the walls and studs and midrange sounds through air leaks to other rooms.
Obviously, sound loses intensity with distance, because the air offers resistance. If your house is a mile away from your neighbor's, it's unlikely the sounds from a subwoofer will ever travel that far. But within the confines of a house, any passageway that allows air to escape will allow sound to travel out of the room. Doors and windows are especially vulnerable, but don't ignore electrical boxes (AC outlets), wall plates, and heating ducts. The electrical boxes and wall plates can be sealed with a non-hardening silicone caulk. Interior sound absorbing baffles for heating ducts are available from specialty soundproofing supply companies.
Replace hollow-core doors
Domestic hollow-core doors, for example, are largely hopeless at reducing the passage of sound. Replacing those with solid wood doors will help considerably. A steel door (again mass is important) will be superior and best of all are two doors, with effective weather-stripping seals on each side. (Remember that one door has to open inwards and the other outwards.)
Like hollow-core doors, single-pane windows have very little sound insulating properties. Double pane windows with an air space between the panes improve things considerably.
Dampening Vibration
The big word here is using non-hardening silicone caulk combined with different materials. Adding a second layer of sheetrock to a wall and studs coated with silicone where they meet will lessen the transmission of vibration. Adding a 6-inch air space between one side of the wall and the other will further reduce the transmission of sound. Filling the air space loosely with fiberglass will further increase transmission loss.
Dual layers of drywall (sheetrock, gypsum board) with silicone caulk between them are very effective, and adding a bead of caulk to the studs before the sheetrock is screwed or nailed will dampen vibrations. You can even get lead-lined sheetrock. Here, not only is the mass effective—it's very heavy-- but the differing materials also help. Using different layers and kinds of material will reduce sound transmission significantly.
The
Staggered-Stud Wall
This type of wall is a clever way of
preventing the vibration on one side of a wall from
reaching the other side. A 2 x 6-inch base plate is used with alternating 2 x 4
studs arranged so that the 2 x 4s on one side do not connect with the wallboard
on the other side of the wall. In other words, there are duplicate rows of 2 x
4s, in a staggered arrangement (see illustration, right) with the inside wall
attached to one set of studs and the outer wall attached to the other set of
alternating 2 x 4s. It's a clever way to achieve a high STC (sound transmission
class) rating.
As can be seen, alternative construction techniques with dual layers of sheetrock combined with double-row or staggered stud construction and fiberglass can raise the soundproofing considerably past that of a concrete block wall.
These soundproofing techniques can be applied to construction of a dedicated basement home theater room in an existing house or to new home construction. The next article will deal with soundproofing an existing room in a house by building a room within a room.
STC Ratings
Sound Transmission Class (STC) is a numerical rating given to various materials indicating how resistant the material is to transmitting sound. The higher the STC rating, the greater its soundproofing ability and transmission loss. The lower the number, the more porous a particular material is to the passage of sound and noise. For example, a single-pane window or hollow-core door has a rating of about 20, offering only a slight reduction in sound transmission. But a staggered-stud wall with fiberglass filling the air cavity has a rating well above 50.
Here are some sample STC ratings for different building materials and combinations.
Material and construction Sound Transmission Class Rating
(the higher the number, the greater the soundproofing ability)
| Hollow-core door or single-pane window | 20 |
| Lightweight 8-inch concrete block, both sides sealed with latex paint | 46 |
| Single row 2 x 4 wood studs with single layer 5/8-inch Gypsum board (sheetrock) each side | 35 |
|
Filling cavity with 3.5 inches fiberglass |
38 |
| Double-row 2 x 4 wood studs, 1-inch plate separation. Single-layer 5/8 gypsum board each side. | 45 |
|
Filling air cavity with 3 inch fiberglass batts |
56 |
| Same as above but double layers gypsum board each side and dual layers of 3.5-inch fiberglass | 63 |
Wow! This is truly an amazing concept...I can't wait to hear and feel it!
Want
to hear what 5Hz sounds like? A new woofer technology unlike any other and a
new product category for home audio. This is the first home audio woofer
delivering true response to DC. The Thigpen Rotary Woofer is the worlds first
true infrasonic home audio or home theater woofer. Conventional subwoofers roll
off rapidly below 20Hz. With no cone the rotary woofer achieves high efficiency
at very low frequencies.
Most
subwoofers have a difficult time producing acoustic output below 20Hz at
audible levels. They generally require large amounts of equalization,
distortion rises rapidly, and even the most expensive available cannot produce
significant output below 10Hz. Subwoofer electronics usually contain a cutoff
filter which sharply rolls off content to the subwoofer below 20Hz to protect
the speaker. On the other hand, the rotary woofer has enough acoustic output to
move an open door back and forth .5” between 1 and 5Hz! It has enough output to
find resonance frequencies of walls and ceilings in a room. It requires no
equalization to achieve flat response to below 1Hz.
ZDNet Blogs has an excellent DIY post on Building an HDTV Media Extender for only $300! Worth looking at no matter what your budget is.
HDTVs are getting cheaper especially when you're talking about older close out models that they're becoming very common in the home. Personal video storage on a home network is also getting very popular but getting that video to the HDTV isn't easy without paying for an expensive and extremely limited function HD media extender appliance. But with a little spare time and some cheap commodity PC hardware you can build a superior HDTV media extender that can easily be upgraded to a full fledged media center machine for $300.
[via Build Your Own PVR]
This is a great and not to difficult How-To/DIY, especially if you need to run some network cabling in your home or office. Check out engadget's tutorial.
Ever open the box of a new piece of electronics and wonder how to actually hook it up to take advantage of all the features the sales person told you the device was capable of? Well search no more, we've found what you need!
[via HDBeat]
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